Crossing the Sahara by bike

Wiebke Lühmann (31) is a bikepacker and content creator. She set off from Freiburg in October 2023, reaching the Cape of Good Hope in December 2024. Prior to this trip, she had already cycled through South America and to the North Cape. She reports on her tours on social media, in her book “Immer Richtung Süden“ (Always Heading South) and in “Same Sun – Mit dem Fahrrad durch Afrika” (Same Sun - Touring Africa by Bike), a film that is currently showing in German cinemas.

How did you end up doing your West Africa tour?

Africa had previously been a big unknown for me. I wanted to take the time to get to know as much of this fascinating continent as possible. The west coast route is comparatively well suited to bikepacking; that said, some stretches were pretty rough and a real challenge - for example in Nigeria. Luckily I had no serious technical problems with my bike, however.

Why do you often travel solo? 

Because I love to be independent, to take my own decisions on the spur of the moment and to resolve problems myself. Also because it’s the best way to really immerse myself in the countries I’m travelling through. 

Aren’t you ever scared?

Generally I have a lot of confidence in myself. But of course there are also possible dangers, regardless of whether you are a man or a woman travelling alone. It has a lot to do with how you present yourself and what sort of people you surround yourself with. But I’ve had almost only positive experiences.

Where did you generally spend the night? Were you able to plan that?

I would just decide on a day-by-day basis. Sometimes I would spend the night in a hotel, sometimes in my tent, sometimes all alone in the wilderness, and in some cases in public buildings like schools or hospitals.

Did there ever come a moment when you just wanted to pack it all in?

Yes, there were a few low points. In Congo I felt physically and emotionally drained. Originally I’d thought the equator would be a cool milestone - but it only came after 15,000 kilometres. I was exhausted from the heat, the visa bureaucracy, the bad roads, the permanent stress. I realised that it’s ok to be weak sometimes - so I took a ten-day time-out in Brazzaville.

What were the high points?

There were loads. I met some great people and saw some breathtaking landscapes. Crossing 2,500 kilometres of the Sahara was spectacular. Another highlight was Guinea-Bissau - though quite a small country, it has wild chimpanzees, beautiful islands and super-friendly people. 

How did you feel after 20,000 kilometres?

Grateful and humble. I realised just how little I need. I did of course see all kinds of problems and crises in Africa - such as poverty, poor infrastructure and climate change. I’m aware of how privileged I am as a German. But many of the conversations I had made it clear to me that we all live under the same sun and have a lot in common.